Insider tips: what to do & where to eat in Positano

My Amazon cart is usually full of the most random items – everything from Terra Blue potato chips (yum) to orthotic insoles (pricey but good) – however one area I’ve had repeatedly good luck in lately is non-maternity pieces that work for pregnancy! Most of these are from random Asian brands that I’d typically hesitate to order from due to unknown quality and months-long shipping estimates. Thanks to Prime shipping and free returns, though, I’ve been able to find a few winners through lots of trial and error!

The Floerns dress in today’s post is a lightweight, straight-cut style with a dropped flare waist. I’m wearing the grey, and also love the look of the green which you can see in some customer photos! The straighter nature of this style won’t be flattering on every body type, which explains the mixed reviews. I wore this in size XS comfortably throughout my first and second trimesters (it’s now snug in my third), and appreciated it on days when I didn’t want to emphasize the bump too much.

One of the things we enjoyed most on our Italy trip was getting to know some of the super warm and friendly locals. I always liked to ask where they dined with their families or where they’d head to on the weekends. Since we got so many questions regarding Positano, I wanted to share some tips from a lovely lady whom I got to chat with – Nicki of @NickiPositano!

Q: What are some favorite places to eat in Positano for you as a local?

A: All the locals used to love a restaurant next door to the Bar Internazionale called the Grottino Azzurro. It eventually closed down when the owners retired but has just been taken on by Raffaele Mandara, who has brought back all the old favourites from the menu that everyone missed so much. The place has been totally renovated and is beautifully decorated. Definitely a must for those that want to eat traditional, affordable local food that the people from here love.

La Tagliata in Montepertuso is also a must. The views stretch all the way along the coast towards Capri and the food is amazing. They pile your table with plates of locally grown and made dishes for you to try and then once you are full ask you what you want for your main course! They have a shuttle service that will pick you up and take you back to your hotel.

A good affordable place to eat lunch is Da Ferdinando’s beach bar at Fornillo Beach. Great salad options, grilled mozzarella, pizzas and always check for the specials that Nonna cooks! They have a free boat pick up service from the main jetty.

Q: I know there are some hikes along the Amalfi Coast with incredible views. Please share your favorite trails that are easy for visitors to access!

A: Hiking is something that I do a lot of. I actually started doing videos because an elderly friend couldn’t hike the Pathway of the Gods so I told her I would film it for her, and I just kept going as people found it helpful! One easy hike to do is to walk down from Ravello to either Amalfi or Minori. You get fabulous views, you walk through centuries-old lemon groves and olive groves, and the bonus is that you don’t have to go up any steps! This one starts in Ravello by the railings opposite the Gradillo church, which is on the main road just before you get to the town carpark. It takes about an hour to hike down.

Also the fantastic Valley of the Mills hike in Amalfi…it was a secret for years but is becoming more well known now. It is amazing, gothic buildings with waterfalls running through them all in the middle of the woods behind Amalfi.

Q: What’s your favorite mini excursion to take from Positano?

The Amalfi Coast boat trip. You get to see all the coastline from the sea, swim in caves and under a waterfall, and lunch at Da Teresa at Santa Croce beach (I take all my guests on this trip with Bluestar and they always say it was the best day of their vacation!)

Also, I highly recommend taking a couple of hours to rent a kayak and explore the coast that way. There are 3 caves around Positano that you can kayak inside.

A day trip to Ravello is a must as well, to see the amazing views and the beautiful gardens and Infinity Terrace. Lunch at Cumpa’ Cosimo is worthwhile too. It’s a restaurant run by the Nonna of the family – try the plate of mixed pastas to taste a bit of everything!

Q: Is Da Adolfo (popular beach club & lunch spot) overrated? It’s always listed as a must-visit, but customer reviews are VERY mixed. What other beach clubs / restaurants would you suggest?

A: This is a tricky question because I used to absolutely love it. It was my go-to place when I had a day off work and I know everyone there…but recently it has been ‘discovered’ and ended up on every traveller’s bucket list. It has become very busy and everyone is overworked. The guys can come across as rude because they are worked off their feet, but it is also part of the whole atmosphere. You can sit at the table barefoot and dripping wet, waiters will be shouting past you and there will be general chaos BUT the food is unique to them: mozzarella grilled on lemon leaves, carpaccio di tonno, spaghetti con totani e zucchini are all locals favourites and many locals will go there to celebrate a birthday or have a good meal.

Arienzo beach club is much much quieter and also a lovely place to spend the day. It’s a bit closer to Positano  and has the same boat pick-up service.

Q: What are your recommendations for affordable hotels or apartment rentals in Positano for first-time visitors? We stayed at Buca di Bacco (my hotel review) but would love to share other central options without too many steps to climb.

A: I’ve compiled a blog post grouping hotels into lists depending on where they are based, what they offer, etc. It is one of those difficult places to answer as people have so many different requirements, but the list is pretty cohesive. Cheaper places nearer the beach would be: Lat Tartana, Villa Maria Antonietta, Pupetto, La Dolce Vita, Royal Prisco.

Q: I love learning about local family businesses like the Amalfi lemon groves and the generations of shoemakers in the area. What else along those lines do you think would be interesting to visitors?

A: Valentino from Valenti Positano runs limoncello and jam making courses in his limoncello factory and garden, taking you through all the steps of how limoncello is made. There is also lots of foodie tasting, including local cold cuts, cheeses, oils and wine. He just moved last year from Praiano to Positano so has been setting everything up in the new place. 

Q: What tips do you have for families visiting (hilly) Positano with kids?

A: Strollers can be a pain with all the steps. If your kids are still babies I would invest in a Hipseat (similar option) or sling. All the local mums use these – I couldn’t have survived without a Hipseat for the first 3 years (most of us never even buy a stroller)!

Don’t worry about what kids can do while here. Kids love beaches – they will stay occupied for hours collecting sea glass, shells, digging, paddling etc. Luckily the area is very safe and most beaches are not near the roads so kids here can have more freedom that in other places. Take them kayaking or paddle boarding, rent out a pedalo with a slide from Fornillo Beach, or if they are a bit older take them to La Porta beach (the next beach along to the left of the main beach) where all the local kids jump into the sea from a rocky ledge. To get to La Porta you could get a water taxi, but all the local kids like to swim around from the Scogliera (the part of the beach after Music on the Rocks). They usually take a couple of inflatables or a kayak and swim over in groups.

This post is part of my main Amalfi Coast itinerary & travel guide. Thank you, Nicki, for sharing your tips! I hope you guys enjoyed this insight from a local’s perspective!