Tutorial: DIY scallop hem for skirts, dresses, shorts or tops

scallopskirt_tutorialGraphic

Supplies: A too-long skirt, iron, thread, a circular template, fabric chalk, scissors, and a butterknife or chopstick

Last weekend, I watched one of my younger brothers, Ed, graduate and was beaming with pride the entire time. I can’t wait for him to settle into the Bay Area for grad school, so big sis can invite herself over and gorge on all the good eats there. During our long drive home from graduation, I mentioned that I’d been meaning to post the steps for this skirt, but had no spare skirts or scrap fabric to recreate the hem. Ed offered to whip up a simple animated tutorial. I had no idea what to expect, especially since I was certain he dozed off while I yapped on about the detailed steps. A few late nights of editing later, I think he did a great job conveying the basic concept (& the nice manicure was a bonus)!

*The below can only be viewed in flash-enabled browsers (ie. not on iPhones). Click play to begin.*
http://www.personal.psu.edu/eyw5037/media/scallophem.swf


Scallop template: Before you begin any cutting or sewing, it may take some playing around with circular objects (tuna can, pasta jar lid, etc) to find one that will fit a whole number of times across the hem of your skirt. You can do trial and error, or measure the total width across your hem and divide it by the # of desired scallops to get a scallop diameter measurement. I did this, then searched in my kitchen for a flat circular object with the same diameter 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom.

Scallop design: I messed up my skirt the first time around, and pinpointed the issues to the shape and number of scallops. I recommend more obtuse angles between scallops for easier snipping (Step 9), which will result in cleaner corners and edges after the skirt is flipped right-side out and “shaped.” As mentioned in a previous post, my first attempt with ~7 super-defined half circles came out looking like a Flinstones tunic. The second time around, I reduced the number of scallops to 6, used a larger circular template, and marked the circle 1/3rd of the way up (Step 5) for more shallow “waves” instead of deep half circles. Based on reader feedback, it looks like between 1/4th to 1/3rd of the way up results in ideal scallops. 
DIYscallops_angles

Ideal fabric: My skirt was a thin, stiffer cotton/poly blend, and I think precise detailing like shaped edges will come out best on similar material types. Sewers with experience may recommend using interfacing on the hem area. I didn’t have any and am not sure what the exact benefits of interfacing are, so if anyone can shed light on that it’d be helpful. I also want to note that the tutorial does not show serging the edges of raw fabric after the initial long skirt was cut. If you don’t have a serger, you can try one or two layers of zig-zag stitching to lessen any fraying.

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and please let me know if you have any questions! (Note: This is a scheduled post, but I will do my best to answer your questions upon my return)

Leave a Comment

84 Comments

  1. This tutorial is awesome. I have also made this type of skirt in red color. It is perfectly match with my black tunics. Share some more tutorials to make trendy attires. Lovely pics.

    Posted 5.19.17 Reply
  2. Sherry Lou wrote:

    This is probably the best scalloped hem tutorial I've seen so far! The scallops look really neat and it looks as if you bought it that way! I can't wait to try this out especially on blouses and shorts! <3 Thanks for the awesome tutorial!

    http://www.sherryloustudioblog.com/

    Posted 7.28.14 Reply
  3. Sherry Lou wrote:

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    Posted 7.28.14 Reply
  4. 1835-B wrote:

    Wow. Excellent tutorial video. I dropped out of apparel design school and a huge reason was that teaching style was very antiquated. Imagine 20 people hovering around the teacher as she sews something new, and deciding whether to keep looking or jot notes and miss something. If we missed something, there was no way to see it again…One teacher even denied answering questions until the very end because "we can't slow down just for you". It was hell. This makes me smile, because it was as simple and efficient as it needed to be. I'm sorry if this is sounding like a therapy session but fashion school killed my creative soul. All I wanted to say is THANKS! THIS IS AWESOME! Sad to say my teachers never explained anything in as simple and effective manner.

    Posted 5.9.14 Reply
  5. Anonymous wrote:

    I love, love, love this hemming technique. I was wondering if you can publish it as a step-by-step tutorial that can be printed and put in my reference book, since I am not near a computer to follow along as I sew.
    Sandra

    Posted 3.27.14 Reply
  6. THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH! I've been going crazy trying to figure this out with my own simple mind to no avail! Can't wait to do this!

    Posted 2.2.14 Reply
  7. Joyce T wrote:

    Love this tutorial! Thanks so much for sharing 🙂

    Posted 1.13.14 Reply
  8. LOOOOOOOOOOOVVVVVVE it!. wud love it on a jump suit or shorts.

    Posted 10.17.13 Reply
  9. fabulous thank you so much, you inspired me how to be creative, love it

    Posted 9.24.13 Reply
  10. Share tips wrote:

    We want you to thank you for such outstanding information on your blog. http://www.intradaytips.com

    Posted 9.16.13 Reply
  11. This is lovely! I'm obsessed with scalloped hems at the moment. I've linked this on my blog, hope that's ok! http://all-the-little-extras.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/ten-things_27.html
    Love your work!

    Posted 8.27.13 Reply
  12. Ann Martin wrote:

    Kudos to Ed! (and you!) – what a perfect way to do a tutorial. Very cute idea.

    Posted 8.10.13 Reply
  13. This is AMAZING!!!!! Wow!!! The video is so awesome!!! Great job!

    Posted 8.6.13 Reply
  14. amazing diy thank you so much! PLEASE MAKE A YOUTUBE CHANNEL

    Posted 7.25.13 Reply
  15. Georgina wrote:

    Hi, I found this tutorial online and I have to say it's the best one I could find, and the video was extremely helpful! I followed your tutorial and made a scallop skirt from scratch and made a blog post about it on my blog (in which I included a link to your tutorial), if you like, you can see it here http://shortand-sweet.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/diy-scallop-skirt.html

    Thanks 🙂
    x

    Posted 7.14.13 Reply
  16. Anonymous wrote:

    This is a wonderful tutorial! I have fabric and a pattern for a dress I am going to start making and wanted it to have a scalloped edge. All of the tutorials I found were sooo complicated. I was just about to give up and do a regular hem until I came across this video! Thank you so much for posting this!!!

    Posted 7.11.13 Reply
  17. Anonymous wrote:

    Wow your bro is Awwesssssoommme! And you are awesome for making this skirt!

    Posted 6.28.13 Reply
  18. Anonymous wrote:

    Your bro did amazing job on the animated tutorial & he's talented. What was his major in college?

    Posted 6.4.13 Reply
  19. Mary Ann wrote:

    I love the animated tutorial, Jean – such a neat concept. And the skirt looks great – impressed!!! 😉

    Posted 6.1.13 Reply
  20. Rita wrote:

    This is awesome!! Tell your brother Ed thanks for a well-designed, thought-out tutorial. And thanks for sharing your knowledge. 🙂

    Posted 5.26.13 Reply
  21. Laura wrote:

    AMAZING! Thanks for the wonderful tutorial 🙂

    Posted 5.22.13 Reply
  22. Stumbled across your blog. Very cute and I love the things you're doing as they're exactly the things that interest me too!
    http://www.eyelikefashion.com

    Posted 5.22.13 Reply
  23. Anonymous wrote:

    LOL…such a cute video tutuorial…love love love!!

    Posted 5.22.13 Reply
  24. Thanks for this tutorial! I love scallop detailing!

    sincerelysammie.com

    Posted 5.22.13 Reply
  25. Miemo wrote:

    OMG. That tutorial is so cute and awesome!

    Posted 5.22.13 Reply
  26. Lady Indo wrote:

    That's an awesome idea :B If only I could sew, haha. But seriously, I will keep this stored for a future project.

    Lady Indo

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  27. Anonymous wrote:

    Wow, cute animation. could you let me know what software/program was used to make this kind of animation. I wish I could do the same. Thank you and look forwards to hear from you

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  28. ....... wrote:

    wow what a great tutorial and so easy to follow and do myself. really looking forward to doing this project! thanks for sharing this! xx. gigi. food and beauty blogger @ http://www.gigikkitchen.blogspot.com

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  29. Good job on the tutorial. It's very creative, and easy to follow.

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  30. Anonymous wrote:

    Excellent tutoria!!!!!!! 🙂

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  31. Nice! Scallops are such a great detail. As others have said, interfacing provides some stiffness and helps things hold their shape better (think of the placket or collar in a button down, for example). Me, I'm lazy and cheap, I tend to sub in a piece of fabric for interfacing (so … if I was making a collar, I'd have 3 layers of fabric instead of 2), usually the same fabric as the garment itself or a scrap of a similar weight. Works well enough, it's what they did back in the day.

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  32. Well done! Your brother did a great job 🙂

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  33. Wow nice tutorial. I also like this type skirt. Now I can prepare this skirt in myself. Actually that video tutorials clear in 100%.

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  34. Anonymous wrote:

    Thank you for the great tutorial! I had seen your post previously on the scallop skirt and thought (as a beginner sewer) that it might be nice to try at a later stage. However, this amazing tutorial makes it seem so simple that I hope to try this out very soon! 🙂

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  35. Anonymous wrote:

    Awesome tutorial! Thank you! Great job on the video 🙂 Greetings from Russia!

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  36. you make me want to get a sewing machine so badly. Do you have any recommendations for beginners sewing machine?

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  37. Tia wrote:

    I love the advice and ADORABLE video tutorial!!! Bravo! 🙂

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  38. Anonymous wrote:

    I have been making my own clothes for a few years and currently finishing my wedding dress. Interfacing comes in both fusible and sew in. It's used to provide more body and strength to fabrics. Google Tilly and the buttons she made a suit with scallops a while back. Oh and for those who have asked about sewing machines, the best beginner machine is one with consistent tension, just a few stitches, a button hole, adjustable foot tension and ease of use. I've used many brands, (currently on a Viking) and though some are better than others it all comes down to preference.

    Audrey

    Posted 5.21.13 Reply
  39. How cute is this, thank you for the step by step instructions!

    xx
    Kelly
    Sparkles and Shoes

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  40. He did an amazing job on the video. =) WHEN you visit SF .. please do a "meet and greet!" =)

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  41. Anonymous wrote:

    your brother did a great job!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  42. Krecipe wrote:

    Great job!!! It's easier to understand with that cute animation :))

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  43. Olivia J wrote:

    Great job little brother! That's a great way to introduce someone to a DIY!

    Corporate Catwalk
    Facebook Page

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  44. Melanie wrote:

    seriously — how cute is this tutorial. that little bro of yours is talented! hope u're enjoying your vaca =D

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  45. ACakeStory wrote:

    This is amazing. Thank you thank you thank you! You made this so approachable. I can't sew but it doesn't seem so intimidating anymore. 🙂

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  46. I love the animation, good job lil bro! Very lovely tutorial, as always!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  47. kimmie wrote:

    Amazing tutorial! I had wanted to do a scallop hem on one of my skirts awhile ago, but I took a look and decided that it was just too difficult, but now looking at your tutorial I think I might be able to do it. Thanks for the inspiration and awesome animated tutorial!! 🙂

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  48. Vicky wrote:

    Now that's a quality post that you don't see around that often. Thank you for taking the time and pain to put this together. Congratulations to your brother again. You must be so so proud of him.

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  49. Midori wrote:

    yer bro is amazing

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  50. R.L. wrote:

    What a cute animation, I especially enjoyed the facial expressions on cartoon Jean! Your brother did a fantastic job. I hope you can convince him to do more in the future!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  51. Ann wrote:

    Your bro is talented!
    Intelligence runs in the family!
    Btw, grad school or undergrad? I've always thought your bro was just in his late teens!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  52. Your brother did an AMAZING job with this tutorial. The steps you provided are at the perfect level of detail and the graphics and animations he used to bring the whole story together makes for an awesome, easy-to-follow DIY project. I'm excited to try this out!

    xo,
    katrina

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  53. Candice wrote:

    Thank you for this tutorial and the video was cute and to the point. I love these posts because I really want to try these DIY projects. They seem doable for someone without much sewing experience.

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  54. This is genius!!!

    http://www.3girls1apple.com

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  55. Dice wrote:

    Wow! talent sure runs in your family. =) Your brother did a great job with the tutorial! I'm sure your brother will love the Bay Area as there's plenty of good eats here.

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  56. Vivian wrote:

    This was such an easy tutorial to follow, thanks!!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  57. Joules wrote:

    I have to try this! I love the tutorial vid–your bro did a great job!

    Also, jealous of the San Fran connection. I had the best sushi I've ever had outside of Japan there.

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  58. What an awesome tutorial (and brother)! I am a visual learner and definitely respond best to illustrations and pictures. Can't wait to get my sewing machine out of the storage and try this. Have a great time in London, Jean!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  59. Van Nguyen wrote:

    Great idea. Can't wait to try it. Your brother did a great job with the tutorial.

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  60. Anonymous wrote:

    Great tutorial. It's easy to follow and understand. Well done!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  61. Anita wrote:

    This was an AWESOME tutorial! I've been looking fw to your tut for the scalloped skirt, and to get the bonus animation was a fantastic bonus! Now I want to try the scallop AND learn how to animate! Does Ed have any recc's for learning basic animation?

    Thanks!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  62. Stephanie wrote:

    I think interfacing is similar to the iron-on fabric people use to help mend jeans or add patches to worn out elbows. It's stiffer, so when you cut the fabric you will probably get a sharper edge? That's my best guess, and also on top of that if you are doing it with slightly flimsier fabric, it will make it easier to handle.

    Now I just need to get me an old frumpy skirt and a sewing machine (haha…my grandma has one but it's ANCIENT even though it works!)

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  63. What cute animation!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  64. MissLilly wrote:

    brilliant tutorial!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  65. This is the best DIY sewing tutorial I've ever seen.I don't know the first thing about sewing but I really want to give this a try – the animated tutorial REALLY helps with this as it gives me the confidence I need…it's kind of like you're doing it with me step-by-step! Great idea, I'd love to see more tutorials like this as it makes me SO much more inclined to give it a go.

    I was given a 'get started' sewing kit by my housemates girlfriend yesterday as a birthday present – I'll show her this and see if she will help me!

    Flora x

    http://www.twowithseven.blogspot.co.uk

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  66. Nora wrote:

    I really enjoyed the tutorial. It was cute and simple, and best of all easy to follow. You should get your brother to do more tutorials for you!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  67. Nora wrote:

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  68. Anonymous wrote:

    this is so cute! i love the grumpy animated face at the beginning!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  69. Holy smokes! Your brother could make a nice side income for himself by making animations for DIY bloggers! That was AWESOME!

    Posted 5.20.13 Reply
  70. I absolutely love your brother's animation! I totally understood the entirety of your tutorial. I need to try this out with one of my pencil skirts tomorrow!

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  71. the skirt is so cute and the tutorial is even cuter! i hope i can find some time soon to give it a try.

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  72. New Petite wrote:

    That is a very well explained tutorial. I have never tried it but you make it sound simple enough for me to try.

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  73. You are greaaaat!!!! I love the tutorial!! :DDD The animation is simple yet good enough to understand every step! Hope you can keep on doing this so that I can learn more 😛 heheee Many thanks for your great efforts x

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  74. Jean this is an amazing tutorial! I love how your little brother made the animations, it is so easy to understand even for someone who doesn't sew! Thanks for this tutorial!

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  75. Cee wrote:

    Scratch what I said. I don't think the buttons will work once the file is converted to a video format. It's probably best to upload the swf file somewhere first, then direct link it into your post.

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  76. Cee wrote:

    Simple? Ha! Coolest brother ever. Job well done by your explanations and his coding & drawing skillz!

    I don't know if this will work, but I wonder if you can upload the swf file (I'm assuming?) to Youtube and then embed it into your post as you normally do for videos.

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  77. Franziska wrote:

    Jean, that tutorial was amazing! I have no idea how he did that, but it was so much fun to watch. He's a very talented man! Now I need to keep my eyes open for a skirt at Goodwill. Thanks for the inspiration lady 🙂

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  78. Claire wrote:

    Can you tell me what kind of fabric your skirt is made out of? In other words, what kind of fabric will work best with this technique? I've sewn a bit with interfacing. I can see that interfacing will reinforce the scallop, making it a bit more rigid/stiff and hold the shape better. I'd use the thinnest interfacing posible (like the one for reinforcing the pocket of a blouse, as opposed to stiff interfacing for the collar of the blouse) so the skirt still has a nice flow to it, although I'm not sure at what point one would insert the interfacing. Some interfacing has adhesive side, so you can iron it on, some doesn't and attaches to the fabric by sewing.

    Nice, creative tutorial!

    xo,
    Claire

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  79. Petite-ish wrote:

    Wow, this tutorial is amazing and so original. So impressed by the animation your brother made, clearly creative talent runs in the family!

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  80. Emily S. wrote:

    Whoa! Your brother is awesome! As are you. A lot of smarts in one family.

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  81. this is very clever and gives a cute vintage vibe. your bro is handy with the computer skills! congrats to him for graduating too.

    i'm also having a giveaway for designer PETITE jeans that would look great on you and your readers!

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  82. Anonymous wrote:

    thanks jean for posting even though you are on vacation! you inspired me to try a sewing/DIY project. what sewing machine do you recommend for beginners?

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  83. Shira wrote:

    I can't even sew a button, let alone do this but ahhh now I'm going to bring my simple black pencil skirt to the tailor so she can make me a scalloped skirt:)

    http://www.asequinloveaffair.com/

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply
  84. Anonymous wrote:

    WOW! Jean, this is an amazing tutorial. You are so creative and awesome. I just want to thank you so much for sharing this with us. I'm so inspired by your amazing work, I'm gonna give this a try. Again, Thanks so much. You're amazingly awesome!!!

    Pa

    Posted 5.19.13 Reply

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